Ensure your new tree's health. Avoid these 6 common planting mistakes.

Here's the truth homeowners, planting a new tree the right way is more technical than it may seem. Many central Texans do it incorrectly, and as a result, a once-promising tree can quickly become a rotting termite banquet.https://gregorythomas.squarespace.com/db-article/2018/5/29/ensure-your-new-trees-health-avoid-these-6-common-planting-mistakes

But if you plant a new tree properly, it'll thrive throughout the years. This is easily done by avoiding these common tree-planting mistakes.

Mistake 1: Planting a non-native tree species

With blooms as colorful as an O'Keefe, exotic trees are beautiful. However, planting them comes with risks. They're higher -maintenance, and fickle.

A lush palm native to Eastern Florida, for example, will have to work harder to stay alive in the drought-like climate of Central Texas. The difference in a home landscape’s environmental conditions can vary greatly—sometimes even in as little distance as 50 miles.

Trees to avoid planting in Central Texas:
These tree species are notorious for having health issues in Texas, such as: vulnerability to insects, diseases, and weak wood. Beware.

  • Honey Locus

  • Sago Palms

  • Arizona Ash

  • Hackberry

  • Mimosa

  • Silver Maple

Trees to plant in Central Texas:
The trick is to work with Mother Nature. Any landscaper or horticulturist will tell you—tree species classified as ‘native’ or ‘adaptive’ are much more dependable.

Mistake 2: Buying an unhealthy tree

It’s important to select a new tree very carefully. To the untrained eye, certain growth defects, diseases or parasites can go unnoticed. 

Common insect symptoms:

  • Stippled, bronzed or bleached leaves (a sign of stipplers like lace bugs or spider mites). 

  • Missing leaf tissues or skeletonized leaves.

  • Abnormal bumps or balls on leaves (sign of aphids or other insects).

  • Small holes in the trunk or tip diebacks (symptom of borers, like the cottonwood variety).

Common disease symptoms:

  • Browning of leaves in oaks (especially red oaks) can be a symptom of oak wilt. Watch out!

  • Crown or branch dieback can be a sign of a fungus like ganoderma.

Tree purchasing tip: Make sure your tree always comes with a warranty.

Mistake 3: Digging a hole the wrong size

Planting a new tree in a hole the wrong size is one of the most common mistakes you can make. It can't be too big, or too small.

Not unlike Goldilocks with her porridge, your new tree needs it all to be just right.

Digging a hole the proper width and depth allows for appropriate water and air flow, whereas a hole too deep can cause slow root development, or even root rot—a fatal tree disease.

How deep the hole should be:
The proper depth will be just shallow enough to allow the topmost portion of the root ball to protrude 2-3 inches above the soil’s surface. This allows for correct drainage--a factor that is particularly important here in Central Texas. Texas soil drains slower compared to that of other states, on account of its high clay composition.

How wide the hole should be:
The correct width of the hole you plant your new tree in should be 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball.

Prepping the hole for water flow:
After you have dug your hole, check to make sure the walls inside it aren't too smooth or solid. Compact walls block out proper water flow to the root system. To avoid this, break the soil up with a fork or spade

Mistake 4: Planting a tree without available space

They're big. They're beautiful. They block out the hot sun and obnoxious neighbors. Who wouldn't want a shade tree?
Just be sure you have the space for one.
Many new tree owners don't account for the size their new tree will reach at full maturity.
Not just shade trees—any tree can cause damage to the property around it if not given sufficient room for growth.

Common problems from improperly placed trees:

  • Buckled sidewalks and driveways from root expansion.

  • Obstructed views of traffic.

  • Power outages when branches come close to utility power lines.

  • Blocked sunlight from plants that require full sun.

Where you plant your tree can save you money on your utility bill.
Plant deciduous (trees or shrubs that lose their leaves annually) shade trees on the south and west sides of your house. This allows your home to get cool shade in the summer, and warm sun in the winter. This can actually help you save on your energy bill!

Mistake 5: Mulching too much, or not enough.

We’ve all done it when we've cooked—eyeballed the ingredients instead of using a measuring cup like the recipe says. It’s very common to do the same with mulch, but this is a recipe for disaster.
The wrong amount of mulch can be devastating to your new tree’s health. The right amount? You'll have a tree that grows strong.

Incorrect mulch levels leave your tree stunted and weak.
Trees without enough mulch are weaker because they have difficulty establishing root systems. Too much mulch traps excess moisture. This suffocates the tree of oxygen and nutrients, weakening its defenses.
The wrong mulch level, whether it’s too little or too much, leaves your tree more vulnerable to harsh weather, insect infestations, and tree diseases.

How to mulch the right amount
After you’ve planted your new tree, the very top of the root ball should protrude 10% above the landscape soil. The mulch should be thinnest on this exposed portion of the root ball, and get thicker as it goes out. It should look like a crater, with the thickest mulch at the outside edge. This can be up to 4 inches deep, and up to 1 inch at the shallower center.
This keeps your mulch in that sweet spot of oxygen and moisture. Plus, it protects your new tree from invading weeds that sap vital nutrients.

Mistake 6: Overwatering

The right amount of water is crucial at planting time. While a new tree requires more water until it establishes itself, many new tree owners overwater. This is especially common in Central Texas because the soil has a higher concentration of clay, meaning that water absorbs slower here compared to the soils of other states. Keep in mind that too much water will suffocate your tree’s roots.

Check the soil moisture, especially for saplings.
Soil should be moist but not over saturated. Part of caring for your new tree is checking the soil around it often. If the soil feels dry, apply 1.5 to 3 gallons of water per caliper inch. 

Watering methods
Hydrate your tree slow and low. If using a hose, place the nozzle at the base of the tree and allow water to steadily trickle until the soil is saturated.

But to do this week after week is a pain!

An irrigation system is hands down more efficient and reliable. The automated system guaranteeing your new tree gets the correct amount of water at the appropriate time of day, leaving no room for human error.

It is an investment. But well worth it to save time and establish a solid foundation of health and stability. Keep in mind however, that the water will need to be adjusted according to the climate, and depending on when you have planted your new tree.

How much water until your new tree is established
Newly planted trees need an ample amount of moisture until they become established. The larger the tree, the more important this is. The amount needed varies depending on nursery stock, the soil type and the species you’ve chosen.2 And if you’ve planted your new tree in the middle of a hot summer, take that into consideration. Ask the arborist you’ve bought your new tree from for the correct amount.

How often you water depends on the month of the year.

TREE WATERING SCHEDULE:
Right After Planting: Root zones should be slow-soaked every seven days for four weeks.
November-February: Root zones should be slow-soaked every three weeks.
October, March and April: Root zones should be slow-soaked every two weeks.
May-September: Root zones should be slow-soaked once a week.

*This schedule may be adjusted in the event of drought, hot summer months or heavy rains.

Avoid these other tree planting mistakes:

  • Don’t wrap trees.

  • Do not amend the soil, unless it’s very poor.

  • Do not brace so tightly that the tree can’t sway.

  • Don’t leave supports on for more than one growing season.

  • Do not disturb root ball.

  • Don’t remove branches to balance crown with roots.

Or just leave it to the professionals.

If all this is a little overwhelming, we get it—planting a new tree can be a tricky affair. It may not be rocket science, but it’s time consuming and most of us are busy.

Most landscapers and tree nurseries provide a planting service and offer additional expertise if you have specific questions. Just be sure to compare prices and make sure you aren’t getting overcharged.

Here at D&B Tree Company, our pricing’s up-front. (As it should be.) We don’t do hidden charges. Tree installation, mulch and delivery fees are included with all new tree sales.

Still have questions about planting a new tree? We’re happy to help. Ask us.

 

Sources:
http://www.nfs.unl.edu/documents/communityforestry/toptenmistakes.pdf
https://www.angieslist.com/articles/tree-care-and-how-often-water-your-new-tree.htm